The City of Bristol's Backyard Vineyards: Foot-Stomping Fruit in Urban Spaces
Each 20 minutes or so, an ageing diesel-powered railway carriage arrives at a graffiti-covered station. Close by, a police siren pierces the almost continuous traffic drone. Commuters hurry past falling apart, ivy-draped garden fences as rain clouds gather.
This is perhaps the last place you expect to find a well-established grape-growing plot. However one local grower has cultivated 40 mature vines heavy with round purplish grapes on a sprawling garden plot sandwiched between a row of historic homes and a commuter railway just above the city downtown.
"I've noticed people concealing heroin or other items in those bushes," says Bayliss-Smith. "But you just get on with it ... and keep tending to your grapevines."
The cameraman, forty-six, a documentary cameraman who also has a fermented beverage company, is among several urban winemaker. He has pulled together a loose collective of cultivators who produce wine from four discreet urban vineyards nestled in back gardens and allotments throughout the city. It is too clandestine to possess an formal title so far, but the collective's messaging chat is named Grape Expectations.
City Wine Gardens Around the World
To date, Bayliss-Smith's plot is the only one listed in the Urban Vineyards Association's forthcoming global directory, which includes better-known city vineyards such as the eighteen hundred vines on the slopes of Paris's renowned Montmartre area and more than three thousand grapevines with views of and inside the Italian city. The Italian-based charitable organization is at the vanguard of a movement reviving urban grape cultivation in traditional winemaking nations, but has discovered them all over the world, including cities in Japan, Bangladesh and Central Asia.
"Grape gardens assist urban areas stay greener and more diverse. They preserve open space from development by creating permanent, productive farming plots within urban environments," says the organization's leader.
Like all wines, those produced in urban areas are a product of the soils the vines grow in, the vagaries of the climate and the individuals who tend the grapes. "Each vintage represents the beauty, local spirit, environment and heritage of a urban center," notes the spokesperson.
Mystery Eastern European Grapes
Returning to the city, the grower is in a race against time to harvest the vines he cultivated from a cutting left in his allotment by a Polish family. If the precipitation arrives, then the birds may seize their chance to feast once more. "This is the mystery Eastern European grape," he comments, as he removes bruised and rotten berries from the glistering clusters. "We don't really know their exact classification, but they're definitely hardy. In contrast to noble varieties – Pinot Noir, Chardonnay and additional renowned French grapes – you don't have to spray them with chemicals ... this could be a special variety that was developed by the Soviets."
Group Activities Throughout the City
Additional participants of the group are also making the most of sunny interludes between showers of autumn rain. On the terrace with views of the city's glistening harbour, where medieval merchant vessels once bobbed with casks of wine from France and the Iberian peninsula, one cultivator is collecting her rondo grapes from approximately 50 vines. "I love the aroma of the grapevines. The scent is so evocative," she says, stopping with a basket of fruit slung over her shoulder. "It recalls the fragrance of southern France when you roll down the vehicle windows on vacation."
Grant, 52, who has spent over two decades working for charitable groups in conflict zones, unexpectedly took over the vineyard when she moved back to the United Kingdom from Kenya with her family in 2018. She experienced an strong responsibility to look after the grapevines in the yard of their recently acquired property. "This vineyard has previously survived three different owners," she explains. "I really like the idea of environmental care – of handing this down to someone else so they can keep cultivating from the soil."
Terraced Gardens and Traditional Production
Nearby, the remaining cultivators of the group are hard at work on the precipitous slopes of the local river valley. One filmmaker has established more than 150 vines situated on terraces in her expansive property, which descends towards the muddy local waterway. "People are always surprised," she says, indicating the tangled vineyard. "It's astonishing to them they can see grapevine lines in a urban neighborhood."
Currently, Scofield, sixty, is picking clusters of dusty purple Rondo grapes from rows of plants slung across the hillside with the assistance of her child, Luca. Scofield, a documentary producer who has worked on streaming service's nature programming and television network's gardening shows, was inspired to cultivate vines after seeing her neighbor's grapevines. She has learned that hobbyists can make interesting, pleasurable traditional vintage, which can sell for upwards of seven pounds a serving in the growing number of wine bars specialising in minimal-intervention wines. "It is incredibly satisfying that you can actually create good, natural wine," she says. "It's very on trend, but in reality it's reviving an traditional method of producing wine."
"When I tread the grapes, all the natural microorganisms are released from the surfaces and enter the liquid," says Scofield, ankle deep in a bucket of small branches, pips and crimson juice. "That's how vintages were historically produced, but industrial wineries introduce preservatives to kill the wild yeast and subsequently add a lab-grown yeast."
Difficult Conditions and Creative Solutions
A few doors down active senior another cultivator, who inspired his neighbor to establish her grapevines, has gathered his friends to pick white wine varieties from the 100 plants he has arranged precisely across multiple levels. Reeve, a Lancashire-born physical education instructor who worked at the local university developed a passion for wine on annual sporting trips to Europe. However it is a difficult task to grow Chardonnay grapes in the humidity of the valley, with temperature fluctuations moving through from the nearby estuary. "I aimed to produce Burgundian wines here, which is somewhat ambitious," says Reeve with amusement. "Chardonnay is late to ripen and very sensitive to mildew."
"I wanted to make Burgundian wines in this environment, which is a bit bonkers"
The unpredictable Bristol climate is not the sole problem encountered by winegrowers. The gardener has been compelled to erect a fence on